The pressure to complete this project is mounting, a good thing, as I really want to go sailing this summer. I'm already a year behind, not that it matters much. If I wanted to build a boat quickly I would have done a lot of things differently, starting with a simpler design. However, I'm doing this for the pure enjoyment of the process. Most of the choices I've made, regarding construction methods, have been easy. The deck was a different story.
Early on I decided to avoid using plywood as I had plenty of mahogany on hand and quality marine ply, including shipping to Denver, is almost as expensive. The plans call for a plywood deck, which makes perfect sense if one wants a painted deck. I wanted a more traditional looking deck, similar to what I had seen in a Howard Chappelle book on boat building. A deck trimmed by covering boards with the planking sprung to the sheer. A deck like this on the melonseed will need to be less conventional from a construction standpoint, strip planked using epoxy adhesive.
After a lengthy period of indecision I decided to build the deck in place. To do this, the covering boards and the planking must be prefinished on the interior face, a pain in the posterior, but more manageable in my mind than the alternative. I've seen a lot of folks assemble the deck separately, often applying fiberglass inside and out, and then attaching it to the boat. This method has some advantages, but also creates some problems when one is using the boat as the mold. The right way is the one that works for you.
I started with the covering boards. When I first sorted through the lumber for the boat I set aside pieces with special figure to be used in prominent places. The covering boards seem like a good place to use some of this stash. I picked the boards mostly on grain orientation. The mahogany I have is 4/4 stock (13/16") and only eight feet in length at best, so I'll need three boards per side. The required deck thickness of 5/16" allows me to resaw the material and bookmatch the boards.
The slightly oversized boards are clamped in position and flushed to the hull. Next the inside shape in scribed with a compass. I use the band saw to get within a 1/16" of the line and finish by hand using a planer, scraper, or sandpaper as necessary. The boards will finish at 3" wide.
After the boards are shaped I apply two thick coats of epoxy to the underside before attaching. The boards are permanently attached with epoxy and I'm ready to strip.
It's nice to be working with wood again!
Before I get too far along, I need to fabricate the chain plates as easy access to the bow will soon be gone. By luck, Atlas Metals, a supplier of bronze in various forms, is located in Denver. I purchased a 6' piece of silicon bronze bar stock, 1/8" x 1", more than enough for the plates but the smallest amount they would sell me. Their price was very reasonable. I haven't worked with bronze before but I have worked with brass. Silicon bronze is harder, but still pretty easy to machine. The plates are quite simple, three holes for carriage bolts and one hole for a shackle.
The stay plates are 10 1/2" in length.
I have to square the holes for the carriage bolts.
Round the ends and clean things up a bit.
The trickiest part is bending the plate to match the curve of the hull. A little at a time works best.
A few more photos showing the boat ready for deck planks...
Onward...
If I had heeded this advice I could have saved myself a heap of pain and lost time. My lengthy hiatus from this project was the result of a self imposed back injury sustained while attempting to move an old upright piano. I've injured my back before, but never like this. My wife says I like learning the hard way and she might be right. Thankfully, it seems to be healing, albeit slowly.
My injury occurred just after I started varnishing the interior. Because the deck will limit access to some areas in the bow and stern, my plan was to completely finish the interior first, then add the deck. I chose Epifanes standard gloss varnish as it seems to have a good reputation for durability and UV protection. I read many strong opinions, regarding varnish, at the wooden boat forum. Some folks seem to love the Epifanes product while others hate it. I will say the learning curve is steep with this product.
My experience with varnish is limited, but I've sprayed a lot of nitrocellulose lacquer in my time. Comparatively, varnish is vastly more difficult and labor intensive to apply. The lengthy dry time makes it almost impossible to avoid dust in the finish. Developing good brush skills takes much time and practice. I struggled with getting the viscosity right to eliminate brush strokes and sags. Some folks say a good varnish job is 90% preparation and 10% application. This seems to be true.
I think I spent about three months in varnish "hell". My goal was eight coats and it seemed like I was in some kind of time warp. Minutes to hours, hours to days, days to weeks, weeks to months. Sanding between coats seemed to take forever. I quit logging my hours because it was so depressing. Somewhere along the way I even forgot how many coats I'd applied. I'm still not completely happy with my work, but the interior is at least well protected.
Things I learned about Epifanes varnish.
1. It needs to be thinned between 15% and 25%, using Epifanes brush thinner, depending on temperature and humidity. Just a few degrees difference in temperature seems to make a big difference in how well the product flows. I found adding about 5% retarder, called Epifanes Easy Flow, really helps.
2. You don't need a $40 brush. I started out using an Epifanes brush that was absurdly expensive. The best brush should provide the best results, right? After four coats, frustrated and still unable to get the results I wanted, I tried a nylon brush from home depot. The softer nylon brush left noticeably fewer brush marks and cost only $12.
3. I hate varnish! What a pain in the ass. If I ever build another boat, I'll be looking for a more modern, user friendly alternative. The Epifanes product does have a gorgeous dark honey color that looks great on mahogany.
The Outer Stem
With the varnishing behind me I've happily moved on to other things. The king plank was left loose for better access while varnishing. Before I glue it in place, I need to install the outer stem as this area will be very difficult to access afterwards. Early on I drilled four holes in the inner stem so it could be held in place while the hull was planked. The same holes will be utilized, using 2 1/2" bronze screws, to position the outer stem while the epoxy cures.
The inner and outer stem were laminated at the same time, using the same jig. I simply put wax paper between the two components. Because of this, there was a minimal amount of fitting to do. The outer stem is run through the planer to match the width of the inner stem including planking. Next, the stem is beveled to the front edge. Brave souls might use a drawknife, but I used a rasp, following up with a hand plane and scraper.
The detail where the bevel ends is accomplished with a sharp spoon gouge.
This is a lot more fun than varnishing .
I found a nice inexpensive bronze bow eye with a 3/8" x 4" stem at Hamilton Marine.
On to the deck...
The shop has been too cold for varnishing, so I spent a little time finishing another project. A few years ago I was fortunate to find a very nice piece of quilted maple suitable for electric guitar tops. When resawn, the piece yielded three book matched tops of exceptional quality. I decided to build three instruments, sisters if you will, using my own design. The design is an aggregate of my favorite features based on 40 years as a player. A major priority was lightness, so I went with the semi-hollow body style of construction. This means the guitar body has a solid piece in the middle to limit feedback, but is otherwise built like an acoustic instrument. The idea has been around since Les Paul designed his famous 'log' in the early 40s. The Gibson ES335 is a good example of this type of construction. The body is somewhat Fender like, bell shaped as opposed to round, and overall dimensions are similar to the Telecaster. I like the simplicity and ergonomics of a single cutaway. The body depth is that of a standard solid body guitar, 1 3/4 inches.
This is the first of the three 'sisters' to be completed. I started this project before the boat and I'm excited to have a new instrument to play.
The top is lightly stained with water soluble aniline dye to bring out the quilt. The mahogany is not stained, but I did use a dark colored pore filler. The finish is nitrocellulose lacquer.
The back and sides, as well as the center block, are all made of Honduras mahogany. The bindings are rock maple and the top is bigleaf maple.
The peghead and fingerboard are of African ebony. I also used ebony for the pickup fittings and the electronics cover plate.
The shell on the fingerboard is Pau abalone heart from New Zealand. The pattern is derived from the lotus blossom.
The neck is made from two pieces of Honduras mahogany with a center strip of Brazilian rosewood. Ebony on the heal cap.
I've been winding single coil pickups for several years now, using my Mom's old sewing machine. However, the gold pickup is my very first humbucker. The recipe is based on the classic Gibson PAFs of the 1950s.
Guitars are like boats in that you can never have too many.
Now, back to the boat!
From the start I wanted to do something different with the cockpit. I spent lots of time looking around on the internet and decided on a combination of the features I liked best, pointy and round. I thought rounding the rear of the cockpit would make sense visually and ergonomically. One of the things I hoped to avoid was an uncomfortable hump, created by the combing, when sitting on the deck. The design I've settled on solves this problem.
Making the curved beams:
First I drew everything in full scale to make sure it looked right and to provide a pattern for the bending jig. I used 3/4" veneered MDF for the jig as I had some scraps laying around the shop. The jig should be designed to compensate for some spring back. It is difficult to get this right the first time as spring back varies with material and thickness. A coat of wax on the jig prevents the epoxy from sticking.
I used four pieces of mahogany, 3/16" x 1 5/8" x 32"+, for each curve. The final thickness is roughly 3/4". The pieces will finish at 1 1/4" in the other dimension but must be oversized to accommodate the curve of the deck.
Spring back was a bit more than I expected, but workable.
Fitting the curved pieces provided an interesting challenge. I clamped them in place to capture shape of the deck and was able to use my stationary sander to rough out the finished shape. I usually prefer to have the work as close to the finished dimensions as possible before gluing, however, in this case I think it will be easier to machine the bevel after the pieces are permanently attached.
The end of the curve will be flush with the inside of the combing when everything is finished.
With this work complete I
can move on to varnishing the in interior.
Our mild and dry fall weather ended dramatically yesterday with a 50 degree drop in temperature and a good bit of snow. I'm reminded this is my second winter on this project and I really need to get my butt in gear if I want to have her in the water this summer. The biggest remaining task is the deck. The plan is to strip plank it with the planking sprung to the sheer. I'm thinking 2 1/2" cover boards will look good on the perimeter. I'll need one more trip to the lumber yard as I'm almost out of mahogany. I started with just over 200 board feet and I expect I'll need another 40 board feet to finish. I just hope the price hasn't gone up too much.
Attaching the carlings was a straight forward process, however, they could be smoother and will require a bit of fairing. I used cold bent 1/4" material, laminated with epoxy. The result seems quite sturdy. Here I'm gluing on the second layer.
The deck beams are all in place, but I still have some under deck blocking to add. If I want knees for extra support now is the time.
I plan to varnish the interior before I build the deck. By doing so I hope to avoid masking everything off twice. The forward beams are notched for the king plank.
Happy holidays!
The interior provides lots of opportunity to do your own thing. Mr. Barto specified the deck beam dimensions and locations in the plans. I followed his layout closely. Most other details are pretty much left to the builder. My goal is to keep it simple and light. It has become clear to me that a hatch in the front deck is necessary. I framed it in at 13" x 13" and it looks big enough to be useful. This should provide easy access to stow an anchor and such.
Blocking is needed where the chain plates attach.
At the rear of the cockpit I added a frame to support the deck. Many folks sit up on the deck while sailing these boats and it seemed prudent to add some structure here. The frame also provides extra strength to the flat areas on the bottom rising towards the transom.
The plan calls for blocking below the traveler mounts, so I fitted some 3/4" stock between the beams using biscuits and epoxy. I have found the plate joiner to be a very useful tool and I use it whenever I can. Biscuits are great for keeping things aligned, especially when using slippery epoxy. The birch biscuits are quite strong and work like miniature splines.
A bit of work with the hand plane and scraper will smooth things out.
The short deck beams around the cockpit are scavenged from beams in the bow and stern.
The carlings are next. I plan to laminate 1/4" material as I did with the sheer clamps to get smooth curves. I think two pieces per side should be sufficient. I'll dry fit the remaining beams and the kingplank, but I'll varnish the hull before gluing.
She's looking more like a boat! Lots of decisions ahead regarding blocking for hardware and such.
It has been said the devil is in the details and I believe it. The plans show few details regarding the interior if the boat, so I'm forced to wing it. I decided early on to install a raised floor, mostly for comfort. The floor will be built in two sections and designed to be easily removed for cleaning and maintenance. I'm using mahogany for the bracing and red cedar for the floor planks. I settled on a height of 2 1/2" off the bottom as a reasonable compromise between floor space and my desire to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. The resulting footprint is large enough to allow two adult sized folks to sleep in the boat if necessary. This arrangement uses seven braces spaced roughly 16" apart. I started at the front of the centerboard trunk and worked my way aft.
The work requires careful scribing and some occasional cursing. Securing the work while the epoxy hardens is an exercise in creative clamping.
Four down and three to go.
Done.
My plan is to have the interior complete and varnished before I fabricate the deck.
I originally thought a deck hatch forward of the centerboard trunk would be overkill, but I'm not so sure now.
